History, Things to do, Festivals, Winter Anne Noble History, Things to do, Festivals, Winter Anne Noble

Frankfurt Carnival (Karneval) Parade

Dates and a brief history of the Frankfurt Kareval (carnival), including the route of the carnival parade.

Frankfurt Karneval Parade

The date of the Karneval parade relates to Lent and therefore changes each year (see dates below). In Frankfurt the main parade takes place on a Sunday and commences at Westhafen and takes the following route to the Römerberg:

Untermainbrücke - Neue Mainzer Straße - Friedensstraße - Kaiserstraße - Roßmarkt - Goetheplatz - Rathenauplatz - Biebergasse - Hauptwache -Katharienenpforte - Bleidenstraße - Liebfrauenberg - Töngesgasse - Fahrgasse - Battonnstraße - Kurt-Schumacher-Straße - Fahrgasse - Braubachstraße - Römerberg

Route of the carnival parade through Frankfurt city centre on Sunday, February 23rd 2020.

Route of the carnival parade through Frankfurt city centre on Sunday, February 23rd 2020.

Childrens Karneval Parade

On the Saturday before the main parade Frankfurt hosts a Children's Karneval Parade, usually starting at Hauptwache and walking through to the Römerberg

"Frankfurt Helau!" at the Karveval Parade

Karneval History

In Germany carnival is associated with the predominantly Roman Catholic states. Frankfurt however, maintains it’s carnival tradition because of historical ties to the Holy Roman Empire as both the election and coronation city of the Emperors. Today in Frankfurt the celebration mainly takes place in the form of parades and is a fun event for adults and children alike. For a full-on carnival experience head to the Rhineland cities of Köln, Düsseldorf and Mainz, the extensive festivities developed in these cities as a way of being subversive towards the occupying forces, e.g. the Prussians and the French, during the early 1800's. It was an opportunity to parody the occupiers and the military and, still today, parades march by with people dressed up in military costumes.   

Carnival officially commences on 11th November at 11:11, but the key celebrations start on the Thursday before the beginning of Lent and end by Shrove Tuesday. The main event is the street parade. Highly decorated floats pass by throwing sweets for the children and marching bands, some dressed up in military uniforms and others in garish costume, provide musical entertainment. The crowd joins in by dressing up too.

Why do parades start at 12:11pm?

Why start a parade at 12:11pm and not 12 o'clock? One theory is the the number eleven, pronounced "elf" in German is an acronym of the French revolution cry of egalité, liberté, fraternité and the number 11 was a reference to the struggle of the German states, who in the early 1800's, were demanding democracy and liberty from the ruling classes.

Happy Karneval everyone! PS: Listen out for the traditional Frankfurt carnival cry of "Frankfurt Helau!"

Future Karneval parade dates

2024: February 10th - 11th.
2025: March 1st - 2nd.
2026: February 6th - 7th.

That's right, just trundle your canon across the town square, why don't you!

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Festivals, Food and Drink, Things to do, Wine Anne Noble Festivals, Food and Drink, Things to do, Wine Anne Noble

Festivals in and around Frankfurt during Summer 2019

A list of (mainly wine) festivals local to Frankfurt, sorted by date from July to October.

As you can imagine festivals are very much about food and drink, but some are dedicated to the local Rheingau wine. Whatever the festival there will always be plenty of food, plenty of drink and live music to dance away the warm summer evenings to.
In this list, festivals are listed by date and every festival is either in Frankfurt or is easily accessed by public transport. I've added a few notes about trains, but please check the RMV website for full details. If you want to explore every regional wine festival this summer, then the Rheingau Wein Fest brochure is a must! An additional resource is the Weinwanderung website where you can search for vineyard walks by region.

Festivals in June - July

  • 26 June - 7 July - Frankfurt Opera Square Fest, at the Alte Oper. Lots of food and drink stands, plus entertainment starting at lunchtime and into the evening.

  • 4 - 8 July - Darmstadt Heinerfest, opens at 18:00 on July 4th. An amazing array of events and attractions during this 5 day festival hosted all around Friedensplatz, with a firework display on Monday evening. (Numerous regional and S-bahns depart Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof on a regular basis)

  • 5 - 8 July - Eltville Sekt & Biedermeier Festival, This is a lovely festival along the Rhein promenade at Eltville, celebrating the sparkling wine of the region. The link also contains details of all other wine festivals in the Rheingau region. (RB10 regional train departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every hour)

  • 6 - 15 July - Frankfurt Höchst Altstadt Fest. Taking place at the Schloss and Justinusplatz. Daily from 1pm - midnight. Lots for the family to enjoy (S1 & S2 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof regularly throughout the week)

  • 12 - 15 July - Wiesbaden Schierstein Harbour Fest, Wiesbaden-Ost. A festival along the Habour promenade with plenty of music, food and drinks. On Saturday morning there is a flea-market, and throughout the weekend a dragon boat regatta. (Wiesbaden-Ost is the closest station. S1, S8, S9 depart Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min)

  • 12 - 15 July - Hochheimer Wine Fest, hosted in the old town of Hochheim. A chance to try Queen Victoria's favourite wine! (S1 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min throughout the week)

  • 19 - 21 July - Frankfurt Christopher Street Day, Frankfurt. The main parade is on Saturday starting at Römerberg. Festivities all weekend long around Grosse Friedberger Strasse.

  • 19 - 22 July - Geisenheimer Lindenfest. A wine festival hosted in the Geisenheim cathedral square and special opening of shops on Sunday 16th too. (Regional RB10 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof for Geisenheim Bahnhof every hour throughout the week)

  • 19 July - 4 Aug - Frankfurt Sommerwerft Theatre Fest - along the northern banks, near Weselerwerft, of the Main river a festival of theatre and events for all the family. Of course they'll be drinks and food too!

  • 20 - 21 July - Amazing Thailand Fest, Bad Homburg. A weekend of Thai celebrations, arts and food, hosted in the the Kurpark. (S5 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min on weekdays, every 30 mins at the weekend)

  • 26 - 28 July - Mainz Light Fest All along the Rheinufer you will find food and drink stalls as you enjoy the festival of lights. Special ships are chartered to view the lights from the river and there is a spectacular firework and laser show on the Saturday evening. (S8 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 30 min throughout the week)

  • 26 - 29 July - Frauensteiner Weinfest, Wiesbaden. Hosted on St. Georg and Katharina Platz, Georg Str. 2 in the centre of Wiesbaden. (Wiesbaden Hauptbahnhof is the closest station. S1, S8, S9 depart Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min)

  • 26 Jul - 4 Aug - Dietzenbach Wine Fest Taking place on Europaplatz in the heart of Dietzenbach this festival draws vintners from around the region. Lots of live music. Opens at 5pm every day. (S2 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min on weekdays, every 30 mins at the weekend)

Festivals in August

  • Until 4 Aug - Dietzenbach Wine Fest Taking place on Europaplatz in the heart of Dietzenbach this festival draws vintners from around the region. Lots of live music. Opens at 5pm every day. (S2 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min on weekdays, every 30 mins at the weekend)

  • Until 4 Aug - Frankfurt Sommerwerft Theatre Fest - along the northern banks, near Weselerwerft, of the Main river a festival of theatre and events for all the family. Of course they'll be drinks and food too!

  • 2 - 4 Aug - Frankfurt Street Food Fest hosted at Hauptwache in the centre of the city, pretty hard to miss! Great selection of foods and drinks. (Numerous S-Bahns and U-Bahns travel through Hauptwache every minute of the day)

  • 2 - 4 Aug - Oberursel Weinfest hosted on the Marktplatz. (S5 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min on weekdays, every 30 mins at the weekend)

  • 2 - 4 Aug - Wallufer Weindorf A wine festival in the oldest wine producing village of the Rheingau. Hosted along the river bank at La-Londe-Platz, Walluf. (Regional RB10 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every hour throughout the week)

  • 2 - 5 Aug - Frankfurt Main River Fest Hosted along the northern bank of the Main River, by the Eisener Steg in the heart of the old town. Funfair rides and lots of fun for the family. Firework display on Monday (7th) night.

  • 3 -4 Aug - Kronberg Art and Wine Fest. A weekend of festivities starting at 3pm on Saturday until 8pm and Sunday from 11am - 7pm. Stores are open on Sunday too! (S4 to Kronberg departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 30 min throughout the week)

  • 9 - 11 Aug - Frankfurt Main-Matsuri Fest. The 2nd Main-Matsuri Fest in Frankfurt, hosted on the Walther-von-Cronberg Platz in Sachsenhausen. Full program details are in the link.

  • 9 - 18 Aug - Frankfurt Applewine Fest. A celebration of apple wine takes place on Roßmarkt with multiple producers selling many varieties of apple wine. This blog post offers a guide to the apple wine varieties.

  • 9 - 18 Aug - The Rheingauer Weinfest in Wiesbaden One of the largest wine festivals in the World which takes place at Wiesbaden’s Schlossplatz and Dern’sches Gelände. (Wiesbaden Hauptbahnhof is the closest station. S1, S8, S9 depart Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min)

  • 11 Aug - Tomaten Fest at Gärtnerei Schecker, in Oberrad. Buy tomatoes by the basket full and snack on tomato based fare all around this wonderful hof. (The roads get very busy , so it’s best to cycle or take the tram to Wiener Str. and walk up)

  • 15 Aug - Frankfurt Bahnhofsviertalnacht starting at 7pm. Roads are closed and the Bahnhofsviertal streets are handed over to the people of Frankfurt - drinks, food and music into the early hours.

  • 16 - 18 Aug - Frankfurt 529th Fountain Festival in Sachsenhausen. A festival in old Sachsenhausen, celebrating the purity of the old water fountains. Yes, it has live music, food, drinks and a party atmosphere all weekend.

  • 17 - 18 Aug - Frankfurt Bockenheim Weinfest, Weingarten, Bockenheim. Go along to Bockenheim and support their 3rd wine festival!

  • 23 - 25 Aug - Frankfurt Museumsuferfest starting at 3pm on Friday and finishing with fireworks on Sunday night. Stalls of arts, crafts and old books along the Museumsufer. Whilst on the riverside on both the north and south side of the Main river are music, food and drink booths.

  • 28 Aug - 6 Sept - Frankfurt Rheingauer Weinfest A wine festival hosting a huge variety of Rheingau wine producers along the Fressgass' (Große Bockenheimer Straße). This link offers a quick guide to German wine!

  • 30 Aug - 1 Sept - Day of the open wine cellars in Rheingau. On these days, during September, vintners open the doors to their cellars and host special tastings and events. The link above lists the individual vintners and vineyards that are taking part. The event is repeated the following weekend on the 6th & 7th of September.

  • 31 Aug - Frankfurt Deutschherrnfest. Along the Deutchherrnufer in Sachsenhausen from 3pm - 10pm. It s a day of fun for the family and entertainment into the evening. (Trams nr. 14 & 18 to Frankensteiner Platz)

Festivals in September

  • Until 6 Sept - Frankfurt Rheingauer Weinfest A wine festival hosting a huge variety of Rheingau wine producers along the Fressgass' (Große Bockenheimer Straße).

  • Until 1 Sept - Day of the open wine cellars in Rheingau. On these days, during September, vintners open the doors to their cellars and host special tastings and events. The link above lists the individual vintners and vineyards that are taking part. The event is repeated the following weekend on the 6th & 7th of September.

  • 6 - 7 Sept - Day of the open wine cellars in Rheingau. On these days, during September, vintners open the doors to their cellars and host special tastings and events. The link above lists the individual vintners and vineyards that are taking part.

  • 6 - 8 Sept Gartenfest Schloss Wolfsgarten, Langen. A must for gardening enthusiasts. Entrance fee applies.

  • 6 - 15 Sept - Autumn Dippemess, Frankfurt Ratsweg. Fair rides and fun for all the family, starting 2pm. (Take the U7 to Eissporthalle.)

  • 7 Sept - Frankfurt Brücken.Wall Fest. A festival celebrating the shops, market, restaurant and bars on Brückenstraße and Wallstraße in Sachsenhausen.

  • 13 - 15 Sept Wine Market, Seligenstadt. Starting on Friday evening, throughout the weekend the old town is beautifully lit up in celebration of the wine fest. (Trains depart from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof and Südbahnhof. you might need to change trains at Hanau, although there are direct trains too)

  • 13 - 15 Sept - Rumpenheimer Kunsttage. Rumpenheim has a community of artists who throw open their doors to visitors. It's a great weekend centred around the Rumpenheim Schloss (Travel requires a car or a bike, or a 3km walk across pretty countryside from Arthur-von-Weinberg-Steg (Tram nr. 11)

  • 14 - 15 Sept - Weinfest am Morschberg, Geisenheim Local vintners offer samples of their Geisenheim wines. (Regional RB10 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof for Geisenheim Bahnhof every hour throughout the week and the footpath to Morschberg is well signposted (approx 20-30 minute walk)

  • 19 - 21 Sept Frankfurt Harvest Festival, on Roßmarkt. From 10am - 8pm. Lots for the family to enjoy, and of course some food and drink!

Festivals in October

  • 3 Oct - Schlemmerwanderung, Oppenheim A little further out than some other festivals, but still accessible by train.

  • 11 - 14 Oct - Autumn Market & Fest (Herbstfest), Idstein Starting on the Friday through to Monday, hosted on Schlossplatz in the heart of this pretty old town. A family occasion plus musical entertainment. (The RB22 runs hourly from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof to Idstein, every 2 hours on Sunday)

  • 12 - 13 Oct - Elisabethmarkt & Fest, Marburg. A pretty university town about 80km north of Frankfurt. Not only the market, but also Sunday opening for stores in the centre too. (Regional RB and IC trains run half hourly from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof to Marburg throughout the weekend. Buy a Hessen card, 35€, and up to five people can travel together)

  • 13 Oct - Harvest Festival, Bad Homburg. The Harvest festival is hosted along Louisastraße and stores will be open from 1pm until 6pm (S5 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min on weekdays, every 30 mins at the weekend)

  • 18 - 20 Oct - Federweisser Days, Rüdesheim An opportunity to try the fresh new wine up from the local vintners. They'll be onion cake on sale too, to compliment the wine. Hosted over two weekends! (RB10 regional train departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every hour)

  • 25 - 27 Oct - Federweisser Days, Rüdesheim. The second weekend of the Federweisser Days. (RB10 regional train departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every hour)

 

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A tour of Frankfurt with Walk Frankfurt

A description of the typical sights that Frankfurt has to offer on Walk-Frankfurt walking tour.

There are lots of great things to do and see in Frankfurt. History lovers will enjoy the old town with stories dating back to Roman times, through the middle ages and into the 1800’s. The modern shopping heart of Frankfurt offers a wide variety of shops, quickly accessible by foot, and foodies will love the daily indoor grocery market and the farmers markets hosted at the end of the week.

To answer the frequently asked question, “what will I get to see on a tour?”, I’ve listed the sights below, and most popular tour duration’s, to help you decide what you would like to see on your tour.

A 90 minute tour

This tour focuses on the old town, but also brings you to the Zeil, the modern shopping heart of Frankfurt. The sights are:

  • Römerberg - the main square with the beautiful town hall. This is the heart of the old town.

  • River Main and Eisenersteg - views up and down the river including views of the European Central Bank (ECB) and other skyscrapers.

  • Haus Wirtheim - the only remaining, in tact, 17th century house on the Römerberg.

  • Alte Nikolai church - a small church with foundations from the 12th century and 20th century stained glass windows by Lina von Schauroth.

  • New old town - 35 newly developed buildings bring back to life a part of the old town destroyed in World War II.

  • Roman remains and the Holy Roman Emperors Kaiserpfalz - historic remains, highlighting the importance of Frankfurt throughout the centuries.

  • Kaiserdom - the Emperor’s cathedral. The place of the Holy Roman Empire elections and coronations.

  • Paulskirche - the starting point of German democracy. Open to the public from 10am - 5pm.

  • Kleinmarkthalle - the indoor market. The place to sample traditional Frankfurt boiled sausage and local wine too!

  • Hauptwache - the former 18th century police station and heart of Frankfurt’s modern shopping centre.

  • Deutsche Börse - the old stock exchange and formerly the heart of the banking quarter.

A 2 hour tour

A two hour tour includes the sights listed for the 90 minute tour and extends to include some of the options below. Unfortunately you won’t have time to visit all the options below, so it depends on what you would like to see:

  • Goethe’s house - literature fans will appreciate the chance to visit Goethe’s place of birth (although there is an entrance fee to visit inside.

  • Goetheplatz - a statue dedicated to the author and an area of “high-end” shopping.

  • Fressgass’ - a street of eateries and, in the summer, some great festivals.

  • Alte Oper - the old opera house. Beautiful renaissance architecture at the western end of the city centre.

  • Carmelite cloister - open to the public and displaying the 16th century fresco by Jörg Ratgeb.

  • *Outdoor markets - Konstablerwache and Schillerstrasse

*Farmer’s market are hosted from Thursday to Saturday. They offer a unique piece of Frankfurt life where you join the locals in a glass of apple wine and a bratwurst.

A 3 hour tour

A 3 hour tour will suit you if you want to take a more leisurely pace through the sights of Frankfurt, perhaps stopping for a coffee or even a glass of wine at the indoor market. If you are energetic, and want to achieve your 10,000 steps a day, in 3 hours you can cover all the sights above and also include:

  • Eschenheimer Tor - a remnant of the original medieval wall and a classic piece of 14th & 15th century architecture (the tower being attributed to Madern Gerthener)

  • Bockenheimer Anlage - a beautiful park, leading to the old opera house, following a path that used to be the 14th century city battlements.

  • Memorial to the Jewish victims of the holocaust - to the east of the city is the old Jewish cemetery and memorial.

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A day out at the Frankfurt zoo(s)

Frankfurt has two zoos which are open every day of the year. Even in winter they offer a great day out with plenty of indoor exhibits as well as the outdoor pens where the animals roam.

The City Zoo

Located just 1 km east of the city centre the city zoo has it own U-bahn stop, "Zoo" on the number 6 and 7 lines and tram number 14 also stops right outside.

The zoo houses 450 species of animals and birds, including Kumar and Vanni, the lion and lioness. There's a monkey house, an exotic bird house and even peacocks strut freely around the grounds. A bonus for those with young children is the opportunity to hire a pull-along cart (3€), which is ideal for carrying backpacks and even tired children and there is a special petting area with goats and sheep. The zoo has various pit-stops offering snacks and drinks along the way and an indoor cafe.

The "animal of the month" feature showcases an animal each month and has special events such as supervised feeding times and information sessions by the keeper. Regular daily feeding times for the other animals is detailed on-line, http://www.zoo-frankfurt.de/ihr-zoo-besuch/fuetterungszeiten/ 

The zoo website offers some basic details in English, such as entrance fees and visiting times. Late night opening until 8pm is available on the last Friday of every month (except December). During the late night opening you can wander round at your leisure or join a tour (in German) which is themed each month. All this with a special 2€ price reduction on the regular entrance fee.  

Opel Zoo

Opel Zoo is located in Kronberg, a 15 minute drive outside of Frankfurt. Easily accessed by car, it can also be reached by taking the S4 train from Frankfurt to Kronberg Bahnhof and then either the bus lines 261, X26 and X27 to the bus stop "Opel-Zoo".

The zoo is set out in a large park, which is perfect for a gentle stroll through all the themed areas. A highlight at the Opel Zoo is feeding the animals. The zoo sells small packs of food and actively encourages the feeding of various animals. At the elephant house you might be lucky to see the elephant holding his trunk straight up in the air, as a sign he wants another carrot!

There is a lot to see here, the elephant house, the giraffe house, a petting zoo with sheep, goats, ponies and donkeys, and lots of other species. For young children there is even the opportunity for a pony or camel ride. Throughout the park are kiosks offering refreshment. The Sambesi cafe has great views across the park, or you can even bring your own food and make use of the picnic facilities provided.  

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Wetzlar, World of Leica and Braunfels

A must for all camera enthusiasts - World of Leica at Leitz Park nestled on the outskirts of Wetzlar, a pretty little town in it's own right so, first, let me tell you a little more about Wetzlar.

Wetzlar

Wetzlar is a 60 minute train ride from Frankfurt (travel details at the bottom of this page). Formerly an imperial free city, and the seat of the imperial chamber court, Wetzlar held status during the medieval period. Today, that imperial legacy leaves behind an old town, medieval layout of streets, timber-framed houses and a green belt of parkland around the old city walls.  Situated on the river Lahn, Wetzlar has it's charms and makes for a great day-trip especially if you tack on a trip to the Leitz Park. 

Map from the Wetzlar tourist information brochure, linked here.

Map from the Wetzlar tourist information brochure, linked here.

First port of call should be the Tourist Information, Domplatz 9. They have a wonderful, free leaflet, in English, detailing the beautiful buildings of Wetzlar and suggested walks through the town and around the old wall and parks. Wetzlar is particularly proud of it's connections with Germany's literary giant, Goethe, and his novel, The Sorrows of Young Werther. I won't repeat the information the tourist office has already put together, but add that from the cathedral, through Fischmarkt, Kornmarkt and onto the old bridge there are medieval sights galore.

There are plenty of places to stop and eat or grab a coffee. With so little traffic in the old town, sitting outdoors in the summer is a joy. Around the cathedral, on Domplatz, the eateries have a good reputation and plenty of outdoor seating. On Fischmarkt 2, the Ratsschänke serves traditional cuisine out of a beautiful old timer-framed house. Another iconic building is Conny's Binding, Eisenmarkt 7, a bar come cafe, serving small plates into the early hours and it's located at a central point where street artists often perform and entertain. Head towards the old bridge and there are few riverside cafes. On the way to the bridge Eiscafe Rialto, Lahnstraße 27,  renown for making their own ice cream. Bröker's cafe, on the bridge itself, offers breakfast until 12 noon and a daily lunch menu.  On the opposite side of the bridge is the Paulaner Wirtschaft, with a large garden terrace along the river, offering regional and Bavarian specialities.

World of Leica at Leitz Park

This amazing, new, complex offers free photographic exhibitions, exhibits of Leica products and for a small fee, a guided tours of the Leica factory. However, if you do not have time for a tour, it is possible to view the assembly and manufacturing rooms through panoramic windows. The site itself is architecturally stunning both inside and out. There is a Leica store and a cafe on-site. The only difficulty at the moment is getting to Leitz Park without a car. It's a 3km walk from the town centre or a bus ride from Wetzlar station on Bus 11. My advice, if you have no car, is to take the bus toworld of Leica (because it's uphill all the way) and wander downhill back into town. For full local transportation details, check the RMV web site.

Travel to Wetzlar

There are regular trains from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof to Wetzlar (RB40 & RB99) running approximately every 30 minutes throughout the week. Travelling by car is the easiest option of you wish to visit World of Leica which is 75km north of Frankfurt. By train or car the journey time is 60 minutes.

Add on a trip to Braunfels

An additional trip, you might be interested in, is to Braunfels. Accessible by bus from Wetzlar, or a 15 minute trip by car, Braunfels has a quaint castle with a small, almost fairy-tale like village at it base. Even their own tourist information calls the village "enchantingly beautiful". Schloss Braunfels (the castle) offers tours at set times and down in the village, Kleines Cafe am Markt opens at 9am for breakfast and has a reputation for great cakes in the afternoon. There is a Tourist Information office on Marktplatz (at the foot of the castle) and of course an ice-cream parlour, Eiscafe Chintemi.

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A day out in Bad Homburg

Bad Homburg, spa town to royalty and Russian nobility during the 19th century, is a short train ride from Frankfurt (train details details below). It's a great place to spend the day enjoying the beautiful Kurpark, the Schloss Homburg gardens, the great variety of architecture, and the numerous cafes and restaurants for refreshment.

Bad Homburg Kurpark

In the 19th century, the Russian nobility flocked to Bad Homburg to enjoy the spa baths and casino located in the Kurpark, a beautiful park landscaped by Peter Joseph Lenné and lovingly maintained to this day. The park has a Russian orthodox church and two Siamese temples. The first Buddhist temple, inaugurated in 1914, was sent as a gift by King Chulalongkorn of Siam. Later in 2007 the Thai royal family sent another temple to commemorate the long standing ties between the town and Thailand. Back in the 1800's the German royal family constructed a spa house in the park. The Kur Royal Day Spa, is still open to the public and and there is also the more modern Taunus Therme baths. After the Kurpark wander along the streets nearby e.g. Landgrafenstraße towards the high street, which are filled with fine examples of art nouveau architecture.

Bad Homburg High Street

Bad Homburg high street (starting at the southern end of Louisenstraße) is pedestrianised, which makes for a pleasant, traffic free stroll up toward Schloss Homburg. There are plenty of places to grab a coffee and have a break, of particular note is Eiscafe De Pellegrin, Louisenstraße 9, serving excellent ice-creams. Don't forget to check the side streets for some 'off the beaten track' restaurants (Audenstraße has quite a few).

Schloss Homburg

At the northern end of the high street is the Schloss Homburg, the summer residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Today, the gardens are open to visitors and the main entrance is on Dorotheenstraße. Beside the main entrance is the Erlöserkirche, commissioned by the Kaiser, with a lavish interior presenting a mix of byzantine and art nouveau styles.

Edward VII was a regular guest at the Schloss and is credited with making famous the Homburg hat, which is still produced in Bad Homburg today. The original Homburger Hutsalon (hatters shop),  is on Rathausstraße 8, in a beautiful 16th century building, surrounded by other beautifully restored timber-framed houses. 

If you enjoy architecture, on returning back to the station, instead of walking along the high street, take the route along Dorotheenstraße, starting at the Schloss, and enjoy the lovely examples of 18th century Baroque housing. Along the way is the beautiful church of St. Marien.

Trains to Bad Homburg and map

Bad Homburg can be reached in 21 minutes by taking the S5 from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof (or directly from Frankfurt city centre at Hauptwache and Konstablerwache) Trains run every 15 minutes on weekdays and every 30 minutes at weekends. A single ticket costs 4,80€, a day card costs 9,35€ or, if there is between two to five people travelling, a group card is only 16,40€ (prices correct as from June 2017) If you have a Frankfurt travel-card, you will need to pay a 2,95€ supplement each way. The Bad Homburg tourist information web page has lots of additional information.

Bad Homburg - click on map will enlarge it and this link is the searchable web version.

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Ernst May architecture and a lovely day out

The ernst-may-haus

Within the Frankfurt travel zone a little north of Frankfurt is an area known as Römerstadt (take U-bahn U1 or U9 to Römerstadt). Today, it is known as a 1920's housing project conceived and planned by Ernst May. Centuries ago, it was a an area of Roman activity. With an original 'ernst-may-haus' to visit and offering some beautiful countryside along the path of the river Nidda, the Römerstadt makes for a great day out. It's also accessible via several cycle routes. (I've added notes below)

First port of call is the ernst-may-haus (Im Burgfeld 136), run and maintained by the Ernst May Society. Directions to the house are well signposted from the Römerstadt U-bahn station. The ernst-may-haus is a sample house which re-creates the original interior and features of Ernst May's concepts and has a very informative video, in English, about his ideas and planning for the New Frankfurt, as it was called. Other exhibits are in German however, one can still enjoy the aesthetics and ideas which went into creating this 1920's home. In the house is an original kitchen, designed by Margarete Schütte-Lihotzky, a bathroom, a cellar and bedrooms. Rooms are decorated in the original colours from 1928 to give authenticity to Ernst May's vision.

Once you leave the ernst-may-haus, you'll notice how the housing on every street conforms to the Ernst May principles, front lawns, back gardens, flat roofs and long terraces of identical buildings. Next you'll notice the amazing amount of greenery and nature incorporated into this residential project.

Nearby walks

My recommendation is that after you have visited the mayhaus, you walk back along the street, Im Burgfeld, towards the U-bahn, but instead of going into the station keep walking down the street (Hadrianstraße). Eventually, on the left you'll reach a road called "An der Ringmauer", walk beyond this street and take the next left which is a pathway leading you around the back of the housing and along the Schrebergartens. (Schrebergartens are small allotment gardens) The individuality of the Schrebergartens themselves are are pretty sight in the summer and the other unavoidable view are the imposing boundary walls, to the left as you walk, jutting out like battlements. Walk up upon one and capture some great Frankfurt skyline views.Find a path that takes you through the Schrebergartens and to the banks of the river Nidda. Suddenly you are transported away from housing and into the heart of the country-side with large green vistas and nature all around. Head toward the small bridge signposted as, "Am Bubeloch" and enjoy the views. For a pleasant walk, cross the bridge and walk down stream, in under 2km you reach another bridge where you can cross over, explore Steinbech (a small water inlet) and then walk back up towards Römerstadt. An alternative walk from "Am Bubeloch" is not to cross the bridge but to follow the bank of the river Nidda upstream for 3.5km and you will reach the old Bonames airfield which is today a nature reserve and has the excellent Tower Cafe, serving lunches and home-made cakes. (From The Tower Cafe it is possible to walk into town and catch the U2 or U9 trains at the Kalbach station.)

To incorporate a walk along the river, on route back to Frankfurt, turn left at Am Bubeloch and follow the river path upstream. The path will eventually take you up onto a road bridge. Turn right onto the bridge and cross the Nidda river. Turn right onto Niedwiesenstraße and then left onto Am Brückengarten. Turn left at the T-junction, at the end of Am Brückengarten, and you'll see some steps leading up. Follow the steps up and you'll find yourself on a busy road (Am Weißen Stein). Turn left and you'll see the S-bahn station Eschersheim. Turn right and follow the road down toward the U-bahn stop called Weißer Stein. This stop is served by the U1, U2, U3 and U8 trams. For a treat head to the Lido ice cream cafe, just behind the U-bahn stop. They make the ice cream on-site and the quality is top notch.

For cyclists

The cycle along the Nidda river, from Frankfurt heading north east is lovely. There is a small bridge at Am Bubeloch allowing you to cross over into Römerstadt where upon the Schrebergartens and Ernst May housing is directly ahead of you. Turn left at Am Bubeloch and follow the Nidda downstream and under the road bridge. The ernst-may-haus is across the fields heading north away from the river. After visiting Römerstadt head back to the river turn left and follow the Nidda upstream to Bonames and it's old airfield to rest and grab a bite to eat at the fabulous Tower Cafe.

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Walking Frankfurts old city walls

The medieval city walls of Frankfurt no longer stand today. Instead there is a beautiful park, the Wallanlagen, that follows the path of the old walls and makes for an interesting and varied 5km walk. Look at any map of Frankfurt and it's easy to spot - it's the ring of green that surrounds the city centre and, at the southern edge, follows the river bank.

The ring of pale green is the former site of the medieval walls and today is a park.

The ring of pale green is the former site of the medieval walls and today is a park.

Constructed in 1343 the wall was up to eight metres high and three metres thick with a wide moat fed by the River Main. In the above map the blue line is the path of the wall, meanwhile the battlements are indicated by the yellow and black line. By the early 1800's the defensive walls were officially de-commissioned and the city planners approved the construction of a city park. The walls were dismantled between 1806-1812 and the area landscaped using designs by Sebastian Rinz.

There is plenty to see in the park. Small lakes provide for birds, children's play areas are plentiful along the eastern section of the Wallanlagen and there are some iconic sights such as the Euro sign and medieval Eschenheimer tower.

Euro Sign by the former ECB headquarters, at Willy-Brandt Platz (Gallusanlage)

Euro Sign by the former ECB headquarters, at Willy-Brandt Platz (Gallusanlage)

Cafe's and other highlights around the Wallanlagen

Starting from the eastern side, where Obermainanlage meets the river, and heading north the park has the air of an English garden. Along the way you'll notice a small lake and sculptures, plus a few children's play areas so the kids can enjoy the park too.

As you reach the Zeil intersection there is the Haus Bar which opens in the evenings from 18:00. Very close by is Main Gold, a cafe and restaurant open from 10:00.

As you carry on walking around the park there is another larger lake with weeping willows. If you cross over the road (Friedberger Anlage) at this point you enter Bethmannpark with it's beautiful Chinese garden.

Heading back into the Wallanlagen, another key sight is the Italian sunken garden just before the Eschenheimer tower. Cross over the road into the next section of the Wallanlagen and at this point there is another cafe, "Good times for good people", which is great for lunch and coffees.

Continue on to see the small garden house, the Nebbiensches Gartenhaus, which hosts regular exhibits by local artists. Walk past the lake and you are at Opernplatz. Carry on through to the Taunusanlage section of the park, and here you will find sculptures dedicated to Beethoven, Schiller, and Heinrich Heine, as well the Museum of Modern Art (MMK). After the MMK the large Euro sign is impossible to miss. Another 200 metres south and you are at the River Main and have completed a walk around the Wallanlagen. 

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Concerts at Commerzbank Arena - Frankfurt

If you're lucky enough to be seeing Erasure and Robbie Williams this summer (July 19th 2017), or one of the many concerts hosted at the Commerzbank Arena in Frankfurt then here are some tips on making the most of your time in the city.

Where to stay

Frankfurt is a great place, despite what people say, with lots of history, restaurants, bars and museums. Many concerts take place at the Commerzbank Arena (aka the Stadion) which is situated south of the city and served by good transport links so staying centrally in Frankfurt is a good option (take the S-bahn: S8 or S9 or tram line 21). Two convenient locations are the Bahnhofsviertal and Innenstadt. The Bahnhofsviertal is literally by the main railway station and offers a lively, slightly raw side of city life. However, the Bahnhofsviertal is not in the historic heart of Frankfurt. To be in the centre of town, near the shops and old town, you need to stay in the Innenstadt. The S8 and S9 run right through the Innenstadt, stopping at Hauptwache and Konstablerwache, so it offers very easy access to the Commerzbank Arena on concert night! This link has a map of central Frankfurt and tells you a little more about key hotel areas.

For public transport details go to the RMV web page. The local Station for the Commerzbank Arena is called "Stadion"

Commerzbank Arena, bottom centre of the map. Frankfurt city is to the north.

Commerzbank Arena, bottom centre of the map. Frankfurt city is to the north.

Things to do in Frankfurt

Firstly, consider a walking tour. Frankfurt is very historic but during World War 2 the medieval heart was destroyed and taking with it the memories of it's past. However Frankfurt is doing an amazing job of recreating some of it's old buildings and a walking tour highlights the best features. This links offers lots of other ideas for what to do during your time in Frankfurt. Another page worth checking out is the monthly update of events happening in Frankfurt.

Farmer's Markets

If you're only in Frankfurt for one day the key highlight has to be the Kleinmarkthalle. Buy some edible treats from the stalls downstairs and then take them upstairs to the Rollanderhof where you can buy a glass of wine, sit down and enjoy your purchases. If you are in Frankfurt on a Thursday or Saturday an alternative is the Konstablerwache farmer's market, and on a Friday, the Schillerstraße market. Both have plenty of places to buy snacks, offer various wine stands and of course the famous Frankfurt apple wine! What, you've never heard of apple wine? Here's a link offering some details on this famous Frankfurt beverage.

Places to eat and drink

This link lists some restaurants in the centre of Frankfurt and also recommends a few apple wine taverns, a speciality of Frankfurt, mainly south of the river in Sachsenhausen (take the S-bahn or U-bahn to Südbahnhof or tram lines 15, 16.  Alternatively the tram lines 14, 18 to Frankensteinerplatz)  

If you're staying near the main railway station, the Bahnhofsviertal, a few additional restaurants and bars are listed below:
Urban Kitchen - a general all rounder restaurant and bar.

Central Grill - a cheap and good Turkish grill restaurant.

Saravanaa Bhavan - excellent vegetarian Indian food. Dosa's are the best in Germany!

Chez Ima - trendy eaterie and bar. It gets busy so book via OpenTable.

Maxie Eisen - another trendy bar. Why pay 4€ forglass of wine when you can pay 7€!

Walon & Rosetti - nice eats and a bar that's not too noisy.

 

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One day in Frankfurt, Things to do Anne Noble One day in Frankfurt, Things to do Anne Noble

How to spend one day in Frankfurt

Things to do on a sunny day

  • Download an Audio Tour and enjoy a self-guided walking tour taking in all the main central sights, or buy the Walk Frankfurt book, paperback and kindle formats, available on global Amazon sites. This blog page highlights all the main Frankfurt attractions which are typical during a Walk Frankfurt tour.

  • Simply relax along the River Main and watch the World pass by. On the south bank of the river, during the summer months, boats are moored by the Eiserner Steg where you can buy a coffee, beer or whatever you fancy. By the Untermainbrücke there is also the Maincafe, right on the river bank, with lots of outdoor seating.

  • Join in with local life at the farmer's markets. On Thursday and Saturday the market is hosted at the Konstablerwache. On Friday there is a market on Schillerstraße (09:00 - 18:30), right outside the Stock Exchange (Börse).

  • Take a 100 minute Primus Line cruise up and down the Main river. The boats offer refreshment on board and a cool breeze on a hot day.

  • Go for a walk around the Frankfurter Wallanlage. The ring of parkland that surrounds the city centre follows the old path of the 14th century city battlements and is approximately 5km long with interesting art and artefacts to see on the way.

  • Walk east along the northern banks of the River Main towards the European Central Bank. There you will find a cafe/restaurant Oosten, with great food and a sunny terrace.

  • Enjoy cafe life in Frankfurt city centre. This link suggests a few places to hang out and look like a real local.

Things to do on a rainy day

  • Visit the multiple museums in Frankfurt - if you are going to use the public transport consider the Frankfurt Card which gives you free travel and 20% discount on entry to many museums and attractions. If you don't need transport then consider buying a Museums Card. Once bought it will give you free entry into all of Frankfurt's museums for two days. For more information on museums pricing and buying tickets see this blog post on Frankfurt's museums.

  • Visit the churches - the Kaiserdom, Alte Nikolai and Katherinenkirche are all very centrally located and welcoming. Paulskirche hosts a permanent, free, exhibition dedicated to the first National Assembly of 1848 and has an amazing mural by Johannes Grützke.

  • Head to the Kleinmarkthalle, browse the stalls including the famous Schreiber stall serving freshly boiled sausage, snack on regional produce, or go upstairs to the first floor and sample a glass of local Riesling at the Rollanderhof.

  • Go and see the 16th century fresco in the Karmelitekloster. Entry is free and you can hire an English audio guide for 2€ from the reception desk with 90 minutes of information about the fresco and the artist, Jörg Ratgeb.

  • Take a look around a German concept shop called Manufactum, opposite the Alte Oper on Reuterweg. The shop stocks a variety of different objects and has a tasty cafe too.

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